Saturday, June 3, 2017

2016 Germany: Slovenia, Italy, and The Matterhorn



2016 Germany: Slovenia, Italy, and The Matterhorn

We left Austria and headed south towards Slovenia. The day’s drive was as pleasant and as scenic as the previous day. By the end of the day, we made our destination, Kranjska Gora, Slovenia.
Kranjska Gora has an interesting vibe seemingly caught somewhere between Western European and Eastern Russian cultures. Although this observation is not at all surprising, I suppose their culture is uniquely their own.  German is not the local language and the locals are not as fluent in English as I found the Germans and Austrians to be. Just as I started to get comfortable struggling with my minimal German language skills, we are in another country where German is a language that "those other people speak." This fact just added to the adventure. The village is a popular mountain ski resort destination. Old architecture next to new architecture implied an economic boon was underway; perhaps a result of the fall of the Soviet empire.
It was raining just enough to discourage any lengthy hike or exploratory sight-seeing but not enough to go find a bakery and over-indulge in some local pastries and too much coffee. I ducked into the first one I found getting cover out of the rain. A pleasant young local girl, somewhere in her early 20s, was behind the counter greeted me with a smile. “Sprechen sie Deutsch?” I asked. She shook her head no. “Espanol?” I inquired. Again, the head shake. “English?” …She responded, in perfect English, “No.”….Ok, I thought, I’ll just point but for the safety of everyone in the country, make damn sure you understand what coffee is. Pointing to two pastries and the coffee machine, I was relieved to learn she was fluent in my pointing skills. While making the coffee, she accidentally knocked over the cup and let out a loud, “Awwww fuck!”. Turning around, she gave me that same big smile she gave me when I walked in. We both laughed, and had there not been 3 feet of counter between us, I’d would have given her a high five and a knuckle bump for her gracious exercise, recognition, and understanding of our American traditions and customs, making me feel right at home. The pastries and coffee were both as memorable as my encounter with the Slovenian Awww Fuck Girl.
Slovenia

Slovenia


While I would have liked to spend more time in Slovenia, Kranjska Gora was just a stopping place with our real destination being Venice, Italy.
In the morning, Oma and I had a quick breakfast and loaded up our car. Before we got out of the driveway, the owner of the home we stayed in chased us demanding we pay for the rooms. Since I had reserved the room online and gave them my credit card months in advance, I figured it was all taken care of. Embarrassed and feeling like I was a bad example of American dignity, I went to the office, apologized for my misunderstanding, and paid the manager. Sorry dude.
We quickly made our way into Italy heading towards Venice. One thing we learned as soon as we crossed the border was that while the Italians mastered the art of architecture, building, and wine making, they totally miss the target when it comes to road signage. At this they suck. I've concluded the fall of the Roman Empire can be attributed to substandard and flawed signage. Needless to say, we took numerous wrong turns before finally getting to Mestre, Italy, just outside of Venice. We finally found our room for the next two nights.
In the morning, Oma and I got on the train and made our way to Venice, a short 15 minute ride. I had been to Venice 6 years before and knew that walking the streets of Venice would be tough for Oma. It didn’t matter. Oma was going to see Venice and ride on a gondola if it was the last thing she ever did…..and she did it. ….like a champ!
Oma on her gondola ride

Oma walking the street of Venice

Oma and Der Duck in Venice

Oma eating Italian gelato for the first time.....like a boss!

Sierra Madre in the house

After two days, we left Venice and headed west towards Lake Como. Again, the road signage sucked but by midday we made it to our destination. We took a small stroll along the lake’s edge and enjoyed a delicious meal at a popular outdoor restaurant on the lake.

Lake Como

Lake Como

Sunset on Lake Como

Walking the shore of Lake Como

Lake Como
In the morning we headed into Switzerland, thru the Alps, and to our next destination in Zermatt, a small village at the base of the Matterhorn.  We took a cog railroad up to the village at the end of the road and found a spot where Oma could get a view of the Matterhorn. We also had the best Bratwurst sandwiches in all of Europe.
Train ride to see the Matterhorn

Krom horn musicians

Oma with Matterhorn in the far background

In the morning, after breakfast, and just as we were leaving to head back towards Munich, Oma fell and hurt her foot. Of course, in true Oma fashion and style, not a single complaint. We spent the day driving through the Alps towards Germany.
Somewhere in the Alps
After a day’s drive and by the time we got to our hotel in Munich, Oma finally told me she needed to go to an emergency room. After waiting hours in a local ER with the local junkies and young girl who somehow found pleasure cutting herself (this time a little too deep), the xrays showed Oma had broken her foot. In the end, Oma decided she could no longer continue on her vacation and needed to go back home.
Oma waiting in the ER
The disappointment in her eyes broke my heart. And again, not a single complaint from Oma. Damn I love that woman!


Boarding the plane with a smile on her face

Saturday, April 29, 2017

2016 Germany: Austria




2016 Germany: Austria 

My luggage finally arrived by 11:00 pm. Waiting for the courier to arrive, I was exhausted and jet lagged. Regardless, I was glad to get my belongings and especially some clean clothes.
In the morning, after another visit to the local backerei for coffee and fresh pastries, we headed south through the Austrian Alps and east to Hallstatt, Austria. The drive was every bit as beautiful as I dreamed it would be. Hallstatt is a UNISCO recognized historical village on one of the most picturesque lakes in the world.
We stayed on the other side of the lake in Obertraun, an even smaller village away from the over-crowded tourist destination that is Hallstatt. Our hotel rooms were   small but adequate managed by a young Russian woman. For dinner, she recommended a local restaurant also run by Russians. It was an interesting and somewhat intriguing Russian enclave out in the middle of the Austrian Alps.

At sundown, a group of Austrian Tirolean horn players floated on a small boat in the lake about 100 yards offshore playing beautiful music. Wild swans lined the lake’s shores as if it was a scene from a Disney movie. The moment was magical.

In the morning, after breakfast and a morning walk along the lake shore lined with boathouses, we headed towards Slovenia. We decided to take all side rods thru the Alps instead of the autobahn. The original plan was to take a walking tour in an ice cave in the mountain just above Hallstatt. When we went to purchase the tickets, we were told that there was a long steep road to get to the cave once we exited the gondola and there were about 500 steps up in the cave. We both knew it would be too demanding for Oma. It made me very sad to see the disappointment on Oma's face because I knew she looked forward to the tour since the day before. And in true Oma fashion, she didn't complain. She only apologized that we he to cancel. Of course she insisted that I go alone and she would be more than happy to wait the 2 hours for me. No way was I going to leave her, so we got in the car and made our way towards Slovenia.